The food is just as idiosyncratic and retro as the space, and it swings from fantastic to disappointing. (Any more and it would feel too ironic.) When you’re sitting in a U-shaped booth, surrounded by people who’ve adopted the espresso martini as a personality trait, you’ll feel like a plus-one at a party that might get a brief writeup in Vogue. The tablecloths are white, the floors are bright red, and there’s just the right number of faux-marble columns. Lots of restaurants these days are channeling a 1980s aesthetic, but at Casino, it doesn’t feel cheesy.
